How Knickers, a ‘Condom Coat’ and a State of Undress Define Emma Stone’s Costume Arc in ‘Poor Things’
08.12.2023 - 17:25
/ variety.com
Jazz Tangcay Artisans Editor The biggest challenge for “Poor Things” costume designer Holly Waddington was trying to establish a costume arc for Emma Stone’s Bella Baxter. In the Searchlight film based on Alasdair Gray’s novel of the same name, Bella is a creation of Willem Dafoe’s mad scientist Godwin. He brings Bella back to life after she tries to kill herself, using the brain of an unborn fetus, and Bella ends up a young child trapped in a woman’s body.
Director Yorgos Lanthimos used different chapters to punctuate Bella’s discovery of the world, and ultimately her liberation from the world Godwin keeps her within — her home. Waddington turned to knickers, a “condom-coat” and varying stages of undress to reflect this complex creature and her journey into the world. “When she’s in the house, those costumes are very childlike,” says Waddington of the audience’s first introduction to the character.
She played with the “state of undress” as an idea to reflect her mental infancy. Mrs. Prim (Vicki Pepperdine) would dress her in a proper outfit, but by late morning, that has unraveled.
“She’d be wearing the blouse and nothing on the bottom half. Maybe just a pair of knickers,” says Waddington. Victorian doll outfits also served as an inspiration, as well as the human body.
“If you think about tripe, skin tissue, or the delicate textures you might see in meat, I had lots of boards to do with those things and I was trying to get those qualities into her clothes.” As for the shoulder pads: they “were about empowerment,” says Waddington. Bella eventually falls in love with Duncan Wedderburn (Mark Ruffalo). And the two depart for Lisbon, with no Mrs.
Prim to dress her. At that point, her ensembles become even more askew. In one
.