The glorious greasy spoon right by Chorlton tram stop that sells some of Manchester's best home cooking
18.04.2022 - 09:17
/ manchestereveningnews.co.uk
When Majid Novin bought the Metro Cafe, opposite Chorlton tram stop on Wilbraham Road, 10 years ago, he’d planned to serve just homemade Persian food, the food that he and his wife Zahra had grown up with. He knew nothing about running a cafe at the time.
He studied civil engineering at the University of Tehran, and when the UK economy tanked in 2008, it took his company in Oldham down with it. Suddenly, developers had no money to pay him anymore.
So when a friend offered him the chance to take on the Metro, he and Zahra, a Farsi interpreter who also studied at the University in Tehran, decided that perhaps a change was the right thing. It was a standard greasy spoon set up, but old and out of date.
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They threw everything out, cleaned the place down for an entire month, and started again. But still, the cafe food remained.
The place was already known for it, and a change to an entirely Persian menu felt like a risk. So instead, Majid and Zahra introduced Persian dishes among the sausages, the bacon and the fried bread. Early on, they tried opening in the evenings, but it just didn’t work out.
Even now, the majority - the vast majority, in fact - of what comes from the kitchen is cafe breakfast fare. And as fry ups go, Metro’s is up there. But so much more than that, in this unassuming corner of South Manchester, in a cafe that hundreds of commuters pass by every day without a second thought, is some of the most honest, heart-achingly wonderful food in this city.
“The Persian food was our main goal, when we started,” Majid says. “There were many more dishes, but there was not the interest. We had no choice. We could have invested